Jamón Serrano Aging and Umami

Keita Miyaki
In Search of Umami
Published in
3 min readJun 28, 2023

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Jamón serrano is a traditional Spanish dry-cured ham that undergoes a meticulous aging process, resulting in its unique flavor and aroma. The aging process plays a crucial role in enhancing the umami amino acids, which contribute to the rich and savory taste of the final product. The following chart depicts how amino acids increase in one-year aged Jamón Serrano over the course.

Salting on day 2, resting until day 17, washing on day 17, resting until day 77, drying until day 167, and aging until day 527. Umami Information Center https://www.umamiinfo.jp/umamidb/

In the given example, the overall amino acid content experiences an exponential increase during the one-and-a-half-year production process of Jamón Serrano. The total amino acid concentration rises from 43mg/100g to 2,487mg/100g. Notably, two crucial umami amino acids, glutamate (Glu) and aspartate (Asp), demonstrate a remarkable boost. Glutamate levels surge from 6mg/100g to 337mg/100g, while aspartate levels increase from 2mg/100g to 68mg/100g.

Jamón Serrano Production Processes

Selection and Salting

The process begins with selecting high-quality pork legs, typically from specific breeds such as the white pig. The legs are carefully trimmed to remove excess fat and then generously coated with salt, ensuring thorough coverage. This initial salting step helps to draw out moisture from the meat, inhibit bacterial growth, and initiate the preservation process. In the above chart, this happens on the day 2.

Resting

After salting, the pork legs are allowed to rest in a controlled environment. This resting period allows the salt to penetrate the meat, infusing it with flavor and promoting the distribution of salt throughout the leg. In the above example, the pork legs are kept at 4 °C (39.2 °F) for 15 days after salted (until day 17).

Washing and Drying

Once the resting period is complete, the salt is washed off the pork legs. This step removes excess salt and initiates the drying process. The legs are carefully dried to reduce moisture content and create an environment conducive to aging. The meat is left at 0-4 °C (32-39.2 °F) and 90% humidity for 60 days (until day 77). The temperature gradually increase and humidity decrease for next 45 days (until day 122), then dried for 45 days under high temperature and low humidity environment until day 167.

Aging

The true transformation of jamón serrano occurs during the aging period, which can last from several months to a couple of years. The pork legs are hung in specialized drying rooms called “secaderos,” where they are exposed to controlled temperature and humidity conditions. In the example, the legs are aged for one year until day 527.

Transformations in Aging

Proteolysis

Naturally occurring enzymes in the meat break down proteins into amino acids and peptides. This proteolysis process releases umami-rich amino acids such as glutamate, intensifying the savory taste of the jamón serrano. The breakdown of collagen into gelatin is another result of proteolysis and is responsible for the tenderization of the meat.

del Olmo, A., Calzada, J., Gaya, P., & Nuñez, M. (2015). Proteolysis and flavor characteristics of Serrano ham processed under different ripening temperature conditions. Journal of Food Science, 80(11), C2404-C2412.

Lipolysis and Oxidization

During the aging period, lipids undergo both lipolysis and oxidation processes. Lipolysis primarily involves the breakdown of phospholipids, leading to the formation of free fatty acids (FFAs) that are rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids. Simultaneously, lipids are also subject to oxidation, resulting in the formation of various volatile compounds. These volatile compounds contribute to the aroma profile in jamón serrano.

Gilles, G. (2009). Dry cured ham quality as related to lipid quality of raw material and lipid changes during processing: a review. Grasas y aceites, 60(3), 297–307.

Maillard Reaction

As the meat ages, the Maillard reaction occurs between amino acids and reducing sugars present in the meat. This reaction results in the formation of new flavor compounds, contributing to the desirable aromas and taste characteristics of jamón serrano.

In Search of Umami: Maillard Reaction

Thus, the aging process allows for the gradual and significant development and concentration of umami amino acids, intensifying the savory and complex flavors of the ham.

Photo by Z S on Unsplash

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Keita Miyaki
In Search of Umami

Keita is a trained data scientist with expertise in finance and investment, a proud Japanese national, a chef, Judo black belt, a calligrapher, and a wine lover